There and Back Again

   Last week I wrote about problems getting to the city of Huaraz in the Andes Mountains for a few days of backpacking. Well, we were able to get out of Trujillo the next night which was Thursday. The bus only runs at night and it took seven hours to get there, so we arrived in Huaraz at around 4:30am on Friday morning. After getting settled at Andes Camp Hostel we slept for a few hours and went for a short hike right outside of town. The walk was pretty easy since there wasn't much elevation change, but the difficult part was that were we hiking at over 10,000ft as opposed to Huanchaco which was at sea level. With higher elevation comes less oxygen and our lungs sure were feeling it. Just walking up a flight of stairs or up a steep street would cause you to take an extra breath. It was an odd sensation that I hadn't felt since I climbed Mt. Adams in 2003. 

On the second day, we did a short hike about an hour outside of Huaraz to a glacial lake called Laguna Churup, which sits at 15,000ft above sea level. The day was overcast (it is now the rainy season, so clear days are scarce), but we received some great views of valleys and the mountains around us. When we got up to the lake it was raining so I opted to take a few pictures and head back down. On the way back a few of us started getting headaches from the altitude which led to two of our group members getting sick and having to take the next day to rest and recuperate. All in all it was a great hike and we were all happy we did it. Although, after recapping our day with the owner of the hostal, Frank,  we all thought it was a good idea to stick to day hikes since four out five members of our group had never been backpacking, not to mention backpacking above 10,000ft. I was a bit bummed out, but I knew I would enjoy the day hikes and getting to sleep in a bed.

On the third day, as some of our group was taking it easy, Nora (from Italy) and Benedict (from France) and I went repelling in the morning with a guide from our hostel. It wasn't a horrible trip, but I could have spent my money on something better, like eating cuy, but we'll get to that later. It was anti-climactic at best. 

On our fourth and final day, we chose to do a day hike to Laguna 69, which is about 2 1/2 hours from Huaraz in the Huazcuran National Park. This is one of the most amazing places I have ever seen. As we climb up the mountain in our taxi, we are able to catch a glimpse of   Huazcuran (22,000+ft.), the highest peak in the Peruvian Andes Mountains. How awesome did it feel to be among those giant peaks! The further we drove into the Cordillera Blanca Range of the Andes Mountains the more peaks we were able to see; and the more impressive the views became. After paying our 5soles ($1.80us) park entrance fee we were on our way. For the most part the weather stayed clear for our 15kilometer round trip hike to Laguna 69. It received it's name because it was the 69th laguna found in Huazcuran National Park.  At the beginning of our walk there was a small, flat, open valley with green grass, cows, and a glacier fed stream. In any direction we looked we could see tall peaks, glaciers, and waterfalls. Every once in a while even Huazcuran would stick it's head out and say hello. Having not spend that much time in such an atmosphere I found myself walking and smiling an awful lot. After 45mins of walking the valley gave way to steeper trail that switchbacked up to the barren rocks above. Although we were, almost, at 15,000ft above sea level we were still not above the tree line. After just short of three hours of walking we reached Laguna 69. The lake water was a stunning turquoise with waterfalls draining off the glaciers above and walls of gray rock that ascended for thousands of feet. We spent over an hour enjoying the view while eating Andean bread and local cheese we bought off the street in Huaraz. We all agreed it was the best day of our trip to the mountains.

After returning to Huaraz we all took showers, packed our bags, and boarded the bus that would take us back to Trujillo and Huanchaco. Buses are the preferred mode of transportation for most everyone in Peru. They are very inexpensive and reliable, but they can often be uncomfortable and quite long. On our way to Huaraz everything went very smoothly on our bus ride, but on the way back I sat next to a woman who tossed and turned all night and we had a bus driver thought he was in Formula One race. There is a universal downfall to traveling by bus in Peru; Peruvian buses are not made for tall people. The seats are very comfortable and spacious, but if you have long legs you are in for a long ride. There is no way to stretch out, even if the seat reclines fully. I try to choose seats in places that have more leg room, but it hasn't worked yet. I guess it's just something I will have to deal with while I am hear. 

This is the view coming down from Laguna Churup. The lake is just behind the low ridge in the fore ground. 

Laguna Churup 14,600ft. I didn't hangout here too long. It was raining and I had a headache from the elevation.

The beginning of our hike to Laguna 69.

Laguna 69 and all its grandeur 

My first cuy (guinea pig) experience. You probably can't tell by this photo, but the whole animal is there. Next to the ceviche in Huanchaco, it's the best food I have had in Peru. It is also the most expensive, 36soles or $13us for a whole cuy with bbq sauce and potatoes.  It was worth every sole.

Lunch crew from left to right: Pancho, a local guide, Nora, Benedict, Chica (don't remember her name), Frank, mountain guide and owner of Andes Camp Hostel and Guiding Service.