Thanksgiving in Peru

     Peruvians do not celebrate Thanksgiving in any way, but I was really surprised how many Peruvians new it was Thanksgiving; and asked me if I was going to eat turkey. The reaches of my native culture know no bounds. 

     This year, my Thanksgiving meal was aji de gallena made by the owner of my hostel, Patricia. She makes the best aji de gallena in Peru. Period. Gallena is Castellano* for hen and aji is a yellowish hot sauce that is eaten all over Peru, but in this dish it is mixed into a chicken type gravy and served over potatoes with a side of rice. It was outstanding. Unfortunately, I have been a bit sick lately, so I really had to hold back and not ask for seconds. Patricia says I have gotten thin and that she will be fattening me up as I get better. 

     The rest of my day went on as usual. I went surfing for a bit, took a nap, and went to my English class. Although, as much as I loved my aji de gallena, I would not have minded some of my Grandmothers sweet potato casserole. I guess I will just have to wait until in come home in December. 

*Castellano refers to the Spanish language. In Peru, most people do not say, Yo hablo Espanol (I speak Spanish). They say, Yo hablo Castellano. It means the exact same. I'm not sure why they have a different name for it. I'll have to ask.

Getting my appetite back with a delicious Thanksgiving meal of aji de gallena.

The goods.

Thanksgiving sunset from the door of my room.

Jobs, Nice People, and Water Resource Management

     These are some photos that I have wanted to share, but didn't have room for them in other posts.

     

This was taken right before I went to my first, and only, job interview. I'm pretty positive I'll be teaching English and science to 10-12yr. olds at a British international school in Trujillo for the next two years. Exciting stuff!

Three or four hour before this photo was taken a man and his wife helped my friends and I find the correct trail while we were hiking outside of Huaraz. We ran into them as they were cultivating their fields on a mountain slope. They were so nice and helpful. At the end of our hike we ran into them again as they were taking their herd home for the night. 

The black thing in the right-hand corner of the photo is my camera strap. oops.

For Dad

These two photos are of a dam that begins an irrigation system set up to take water down the mountain to farmers' fields. The water that flows into reservoir in the top picture is from a naturally flowing stream that originates from melting snow and ice in upper elevations. 

The structure looked to be very new, yet without any sophisticated technology. As the irrigation ditches  run down the mountain gates can be opened and closed in different places to regulate which areas receive more water. Occasionally, I saw people turning off/on water to their fields. I wonder if there are ever any disputes as to who gets the water?

There and Back Again

   Last week I wrote about problems getting to the city of Huaraz in the Andes Mountains for a few days of backpacking. Well, we were able to get out of Trujillo the next night which was Thursday. The bus only runs at night and it took seven hours to get there, so we arrived in Huaraz at around 4:30am on Friday morning. After getting settled at Andes Camp Hostel we slept for a few hours and went for a short hike right outside of town. The walk was pretty easy since there wasn't much elevation change, but the difficult part was that were we hiking at over 10,000ft as opposed to Huanchaco which was at sea level. With higher elevation comes less oxygen and our lungs sure were feeling it. Just walking up a flight of stairs or up a steep street would cause you to take an extra breath. It was an odd sensation that I hadn't felt since I climbed Mt. Adams in 2003. 

On the second day, we did a short hike about an hour outside of Huaraz to a glacial lake called Laguna Churup, which sits at 15,000ft above sea level. The day was overcast (it is now the rainy season, so clear days are scarce), but we received some great views of valleys and the mountains around us. When we got up to the lake it was raining so I opted to take a few pictures and head back down. On the way back a few of us started getting headaches from the altitude which led to two of our group members getting sick and having to take the next day to rest and recuperate. All in all it was a great hike and we were all happy we did it. Although, after recapping our day with the owner of the hostal, Frank,  we all thought it was a good idea to stick to day hikes since four out five members of our group had never been backpacking, not to mention backpacking above 10,000ft. I was a bit bummed out, but I knew I would enjoy the day hikes and getting to sleep in a bed.

On the third day, as some of our group was taking it easy, Nora (from Italy) and Benedict (from France) and I went repelling in the morning with a guide from our hostel. It wasn't a horrible trip, but I could have spent my money on something better, like eating cuy, but we'll get to that later. It was anti-climactic at best. 

On our fourth and final day, we chose to do a day hike to Laguna 69, which is about 2 1/2 hours from Huaraz in the Huazcuran National Park. This is one of the most amazing places I have ever seen. As we climb up the mountain in our taxi, we are able to catch a glimpse of   Huazcuran (22,000+ft.), the highest peak in the Peruvian Andes Mountains. How awesome did it feel to be among those giant peaks! The further we drove into the Cordillera Blanca Range of the Andes Mountains the more peaks we were able to see; and the more impressive the views became. After paying our 5soles ($1.80us) park entrance fee we were on our way. For the most part the weather stayed clear for our 15kilometer round trip hike to Laguna 69. It received it's name because it was the 69th laguna found in Huazcuran National Park.  At the beginning of our walk there was a small, flat, open valley with green grass, cows, and a glacier fed stream. In any direction we looked we could see tall peaks, glaciers, and waterfalls. Every once in a while even Huazcuran would stick it's head out and say hello. Having not spend that much time in such an atmosphere I found myself walking and smiling an awful lot. After 45mins of walking the valley gave way to steeper trail that switchbacked up to the barren rocks above. Although we were, almost, at 15,000ft above sea level we were still not above the tree line. After just short of three hours of walking we reached Laguna 69. The lake water was a stunning turquoise with waterfalls draining off the glaciers above and walls of gray rock that ascended for thousands of feet. We spent over an hour enjoying the view while eating Andean bread and local cheese we bought off the street in Huaraz. We all agreed it was the best day of our trip to the mountains.

After returning to Huaraz we all took showers, packed our bags, and boarded the bus that would take us back to Trujillo and Huanchaco. Buses are the preferred mode of transportation for most everyone in Peru. They are very inexpensive and reliable, but they can often be uncomfortable and quite long. On our way to Huaraz everything went very smoothly on our bus ride, but on the way back I sat next to a woman who tossed and turned all night and we had a bus driver thought he was in Formula One race. There is a universal downfall to traveling by bus in Peru; Peruvian buses are not made for tall people. The seats are very comfortable and spacious, but if you have long legs you are in for a long ride. There is no way to stretch out, even if the seat reclines fully. I try to choose seats in places that have more leg room, but it hasn't worked yet. I guess it's just something I will have to deal with while I am hear. 

This is the view coming down from Laguna Churup. The lake is just behind the low ridge in the fore ground. 

Laguna Churup 14,600ft. I didn't hangout here too long. It was raining and I had a headache from the elevation.

The beginning of our hike to Laguna 69.

Laguna 69 and all its grandeur 

My first cuy (guinea pig) experience. You probably can't tell by this photo, but the whole animal is there. Next to the ceviche in Huanchaco, it's the best food I have had in Peru. It is also the most expensive, 36soles or $13us for a whole cuy with bbq sauce and potatoes.  It was worth every sole.

Lunch crew from left to right: Pancho, a local guide, Nora, Benedict, Chica (don't remember her name), Frank, mountain guide and owner of Andes Camp Hostel and Guiding Service.

"Miner" Setbacks

So, last night I was supposed to take the overnight bus from Trujillo to Huaraz for 5 days of backpacking in the Cordillera Blanca range of the Andes mountains, but things have changed. Hundreds of miners are on strike/protesting against the mining companies in the area and have blocked mountain roads with debris. The word on the street is that the roads will be cleared today or tomorrow, but no one is really sure. In the meantime, my group and I are waiting in Huanchaco to hear if we will be able to go up there or not. It's a pretty big bummer on my end because I was really looking forward to seeing the area and getting out of Huanchaco for a bit. On the flip side, miners have an extremely dangerous job and, to my knowledge, are treated very poorly in Peru, as with many other places in the world. I have no idea why they are actually protesting, but my guess is that it's for a pretty good reason. I have read it is due to the amount of pollution that the mines are producing, but I'm not 100% sure on that. You can read the article at the bottom to get a better idea, but I don't know the reputation of the publication, so take it for what it is.

I am beginning to think that my trip is pretty insignificant in comparison to the protests. I have plenty of money and can go up there almost any time I want. How can I be upset at these people for interrupting my holiday? While I am on a joy ride, they maybe be fighting for the preservation of their homes and families. I would have to be a pretty big jerk to be upset. Huaraz can wait.

http://www.peruthisweek.com/news-978-Antamina-protests-intensify-in-Acansh-Peru/

This Ain't No Long John Silvers

I cannot say enough about the food here. Since I am very new to this place I have not figured out what all the dished are by reading the menu, so I am always excited about what I am really going to get. A plate of chicharron de pescado could be prepared as a whole fried fish or as smaller fish nuggets. You just never know.

Below are a few delightful dishes I have had over the past three or four days.

This is my favorite ceviche place. I think it's considered a hole in the wall even by Peruvian standards. I have no idea what it's called, but it's the best I have had so far.

This is my plate of ceviche. Four different types of seafood including crab and octopus. With soup, this plate goes for 8soles or $2.92us.

The Pilsen Trujillo Beer was 4soles or $1.46us.

The same restaurant, but this time it's a plate of chicharron de pescado (fried fish nuggets), along with some fried potato type veggies. With soup, it costs 4soles or $1.46us

This plate comes from the coastal town of Puerto Malabrigo which is an hour north of Huanchaco and lays claim to one of the longest left point breaks in the world. This is also chicharron de pescado, but the cook decided to fry the whole fish and add sides of rice and lentils. This also came with soup for 7soles or $2.55us. The service was terrible here, but the food was outstanding.

This is a personal creation of mine for a late evening snack. It's fresh baked bread with a fried egg and cheese. Just ask my old roommate Alex Morgan and he will tell you that these are a staple for me anywhere I live. Since I bought the ingredients at the bodega, this probably cost my under $.50us.

My Trip To The Post Office and Other Goings On

I was really happy to get the news that my package had arrived in Trujillo (Thank you Mom and Dad!), but for some reason it wouldn't come to Huanchaco, so I would have to take the bus to the main post office to pick it up. I guess these things happen with international parcels.

The only time I have been to Trujillo was upon my arrival on the bus coming from Lima. I had heard that Trujillo can sometimes be dangerous and I should watch where I was. I saw on TV that Trujillo also has a growing gang problem. So, as I was taking the bus into the city I had my reservations. Luckily, everything I encountered was the opposite. Although I got turned around a couple of times, everyone I spoke with was very nice and helped me get back on track. On my way to the post office I had to walk through a very nice shopping district with various stores, restaurants, and dessert shops. I, also, got the chance to walk through the Plaza de Armas, which is a a giant square in the city center (I think). It was very beautiful with lots of red and white geraniums (Peru's national colors), green grass, and a large statue in the middle.

At the post office I had to wait for about 30mins to see the customs official about my box. It wasn't too bad though as I was able to have a nice conversation with three Peruvian ladies, one who spoke very good English.

After I received my box I didn't really want to go back to Huanchaco. I wanted to walk around and see things. I'm sure there are some sketchy parts to Trujillo (as with any city in the world), but the section I was in was quite interesting. I will definitely be going back soon.

Below are a few photos I took from my jaunt into the big city.

The central post office for the whole region of La Libertad. There was hardly anyone there.

The main view of the Plaza de Armas, Trujillo, Peru

Different view of the Plaza de Armas as I was coming from the post office.

In other news, next Wednesday is a pretty big day for me. I have a meeting with the Headmaster of a British private school in Trujillo. They have openings for English teachers for next school year (it's about to be summer here, so the students will be on vacation until February) and I would like to be considered. I will, also, be touring the school which I am quite excited about since I have not been to a school in Peru as of yet. Even if I am not offered a position, it will be a very valuable learning experience.

On Wednesday night I will be taking a seven hour bus ride, through the night, with a couple other volunteers to the city of Huaraz to do some backpacking. Huaraz sits at around 10,000ft above sea level in the Andes Mountains. As much as I have enjoyed Huanchaco over the past month (yep, I have been here a month as of today) I am pretty ready to get out of here for a week and see some of Peru. I will definitely be posting some photos from that trip.